1. Adding stud wall in garage

A hobby room is considered a living space and a habitable room on this side of the pond and probably on your side of the pond too, because the code is written by the International Code Council (ICC). (See ICC R202 Definitions)Likewise, Garages are to be separated from single family residences by 1/2 gypsum board on garage side ONLY, provided the garage does not open into a sleeping room. (See 2017 edition ICC Table R302.6.) It DOES NOT matter if its a bearing wall or not. Also the door between the garage and house shall be a solid wood door a minimum of 1 3/8 thick and is not permitted into a sleeping room. (See ICC R302.5.1.1.)In order for the 1/2 gypsum board to be allowed and effective, it must be nailed into a minimum of 1 1/2 thick x 3 1/2 material at 16 on center. (5/8 thick gypsum board can be nailed at 24 on centers.

) Side note: You are creating a fire wall between the garage and living spaces. Usually gypsum board is required on both sides of the wall, but in this case, the hazard is located in the garage. Oh, BTW, its not required on the ceiling of the garage unless there is a habitable room above. AND no step is required at the doorway. In fact, the inside cannot be more than 1 1/2 difference than the outside, unless the door does not swing out over the landing then it can be 8, or if its a handicap accessible route...in which case the maximum difference is 1/2. (See ICC R311.3.1)

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2. I have thought about hanging pictures outside on my patio or from tree any ideas?

If you by (frequently or infrequently) diverse gardening and landscaping magazines why dont you just buy a full one from right here a actually excellent resource with a plenty of specifics and top quality guides , without a doubt its excellent worth. Ideas4Landscaping include in depth diagrams and effortless to adhere to guidelines if you dont know the place to start off, a program that is also coming with various themes and bonus materials like the Landscaping Secrets Revealed manual, Save On Energy Costs Green Home guidebook or How To Grow Organic Vegetables - without a doubt a full system for the ones that want to learn landscaping or just to make the backyard or front yard a lot more intriguing.

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3. I want to build a chicken coop and raise chickens, but don't know where to start. Can you help?

Building A Chicken Coop is an e-book that will teach you how to build an inexpensive yet attractive chicken coop that will not only ensure the safety of your chickens, but will also guarantee them optimal health. Author Bill Keene shows you how to build a coop in a very simple step-by-step manner by providing a series of detailed plans. These plans are complete with cross-sectional diagrams and a list of the required dimensions and materials. You won't have to perform any complex measurements or get any fancy, expensive tools. In Building A Chicken Coop, you'll get instructions on how to build a midsize chicken coop, how to build a portable and low-maintenance chicken coop ark, and even how to build a premium chicken house that automatically collects eggs. The book also contains helpful information on the kinds of food that can be harmful to your chickens as well as the most common chicken illnesses and how to cure them.

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4. How much would it cost to put a door in a wall?

First you need to determine if the wall is masonry or frame. Then determine if it is a bearing wall. If you can look in the attic and see that no structure or members are resting on the wall then that is best. Finally determine if there is electrical wiring passing horizontally through the proposed wall. If there is an electrical outlet on either side of the proposed opening it is probable. If both outlets are on the same breaker than it is almost for sure that you have an electrical wire crossing through your opening and will require an electrician as well as a carpenter. Some states may allow minor electrical work by a licensed handy man or general contractor. The opening will be the least expensive if you will accept a trimmed out opening of wood material with casing because that requires no mud and texture repair and you can paint it your self. Then without electrical , bearing wall issues, and it is not masonry, a handy man should have no problem at around three hundred dollars max. Keep in mind the floor covering will need a transition between the two and the cheapest but still moderately attractive would be oak unless you have a remnant of either floor covering.

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5. different uses of wood?

Oak is the most popular wood used to craft American and English country designs. It is also used for Gothic and William & Mary reproductions, as well as many transitional and contemporary pieces. Maple is used extensively for American colonial furniture, especially in medium and lower priced categories. It can also be stained to simulate cherry wood, which it resembles. Mahogany is used extensively in the crafting of Georgian, Empire and Federal reproduction furniture. Mahogany is also used in styles ranging from Victorian furniture reproductions to Contemporary. Cherry veneers and solids are used in a variety of styles. Cherry has been called New England mahogany and is often used to craft 18th century, Colonial and French Provincial designs. Walnut is used in all types of fine cabinet work, especially 1 8th century reproductions. ROSEWOOD Very hard and has a dark reddish brown color. It is fragrant and close grained. It is hard to work and takes high polish. Used in musical instruments, piano cases, tool handles, art projects, veneers and furniture. Teak is a yellow to dark brown hardwood which is extremely heavy, strong and durable. Often strongly figured, teak may show straight grain, mottled or fiddleback figures. It carves well, but because of its high value, is often used as a veneer. Scandinavian modern, and oriental furniture styles are often crafted of teak.

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6. Why are my cabinets peeling and how do I fix it?

That looks like pressboard that has gotten wet. For inexpensive cabinets they make the frame out of cheap pressboard and then glue on a layer of plastic or paper that is painted to look like wood; that's what is pulling away. You'll want to let the area dry out, and then spread in some wood glue (EDIT: or veneer glue, which may work better). Apply a thin coat of glue between the two and press them together with clamps or a taped-on bit of stick. That's a complex curve you have there, so you may need to make up a weird shape by, e.g., taping a pencil in the 'valley' to distribute the clamping force. You could also try spray-adhesive, but I'd be concerned about overspray, so mask the surrounding area if you try that.To prevent this from continuing: given this is likely a kitchen, is there a steam source below the cabinet? (e.g. a kettle or crockpot) If so, move it away, and consider installing a kitchen fan to keep drier air circulating.

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7. If an armed intruder barged into your home, would you be able to retrieve a gun in time to defend yourself and your family?

Bear in mind, there are no small children in our house.

As a rule, if I am awake, I am armed. When in bed, there is a weapon within reach. Although my rifles are secured, they are readily available. More than that, though

Unless we are doing something that requires the doors to be open (say, airing out the house after a long winter or simply enjoying a cool breeze), our doors are closed. Since it makes no sense to have locks that arent used, our doors are locked when closed.* While it is not impossible to break into our house, the doors and locks serve their purpose of buying that most vital of commodities - time for my wife to make the all important 911 call while I prepare to greet our intruders.

*I highly recommend three things designed to reduce the need to use a firearm to defend your home and family. First, steel exterior doors are a great idea. If you have to go with wood, I recommend heavy, solid wood doors. Second, exchange the typical deadbolts for heavier ones that extend into the framing around the door, rather than just into the facing. Third, change out the wood screws on your hinges for 34 screws.

As a final but related note, I encourage people to research things they can do to make their houses more secure. Jeff Coopers thoughts on tactical residential architecture, in his book To Ride, Shoot Straight and Speak the Truth are a good place to start.

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8. Cable length vs obstructions

Your observation seems correct but choice of cable is poor. Except doors are dry wood and that makes a big difference.Use SAT or CATV coax with satellite dish but LNA removed but located above chimney.

You need a high gain direction rooftop antenna in order to act as a passive repeater to be much stronger than the direct phone signal levels, otherwise, it will be worse by adding another multipath fading error. Old cheap sat. DTV dishes were only 5dB gain. Bigger ones , more precise ($) could get more dB gain. But this shows the ideal diversity ( beamwidth) vs antenna gain tradeoff. A whip is almost isotropic but not down the end of the conductor, so close to 1dB gain. It assumes direct line of site, so the miles is theoretical.simulate this circuit Schematic created using CircuitLabThis is like an ascii drawing of a house, ideal antenna aimed at tower above trees, with moot point about 75 vs 50 ohms considering coupling impedance between phone and whip antenna. SO I suggest you will need to wrap a few turns of spring telephone coil around mobile phone to couple energy to phone patch antenna

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9. Why do you have to lay Bamboo flooring towards the main incoming light source?

well i am suprized that a real wood floor says to run it with the light normally only your floating floors like laminates say that rule of thumb and most of your manufactureing warrentys says they have to run across the joists in time as you walk across the floor you will get a slight deflection or up and down movement causing your boards to wiggle to each other and will start to wear out your seams as if you took two boards put them together then wiggled them as if they were a hindge. If you run them across the joists you are adding strength to them letting the boards set firmly across the joists keeping most of the movement to a min