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1. What is this video called?
"Dancing Dizzy the Cat"
2. What is the best video game?
gta 5 minecraft halo 4 battlefield 4 call of duty ghosts call of duty advanced warfare call of duty mw3
3. What should I look for when buying a camcorder?
Aperture is the effective amount of light a camera lens can capture. The smaller the number, the more light. A quality camcorder will have a lens around f1.8 - f1.6... do not consider a camera with a larger minimum f-number. Consumer camcorders in particular are not ideal in low-light anyway, and so you need the best lens possible to compensate for smaller sensor size. I am not sure of the context of "open up max"... aperture is a bit difficult to speak about, simply because numbers get smaller -- so the smallest number is the maximum about of light-gathering you are going to achieve. Shutter speed is an issue for video as well as still photo, but only the maximum shutter speed is an issue ... your minimum is determined (other than in some special effects modes) by the frame rate. All consumer camcorders support 60i (interlaced video, like regular television). Some support 30p, which is basically like 60i without interlacing, and some allow 24p (24-frames per second, progressive) which is essentially the same frame rate as theatrical film. Cameras can use lower shutter speeds in 24p mode, thus handle low light a bit better. Focal length is the actual measure of the optical lens. Zoom is usually given as a magnification factor, like 10x... same as 10:1. What that actually means is that, were the minimum focal length 6mm, the maximum would be 60mm. Consumer camcorders in particular suffer from too much telephoto (large focal length) and not enough wide angle (small focal length), so I would advice getting the widest lens possible. That's trickier than it sounds, because the effective angle-of-view is dependent on both the lens focal length and the sensor size. These will often be translated to "35mm equivalent", which is kind of a standard way of expressing things. You are lucky to get a 35mm equivalent in a camcorder lens, luckier still if you can get a 28mm. Digital zoom is basically just cropping the sensor. For standard definition video, you have 1/3 megapixel of image, and in some cameras, fairly crazy sensor sizes to enable ok still pictures... so a tiny bit of digital zoom may not be objectionable. With high def, you probably want to shut it off. Sensor size is also an issue... larger sensors have larger pixels at the same "megapixel" rating, so they are more light sensitive. Most consumer camcorders have a single CCD or CMOS sensor and use a Bayer pattern to interpolate color, like a digital still camera. This is not as bad a thing as it used to be, since when you have sensors much larger than your video, interpolation can take place within a pixel. Panasonic offers a number of consumer priced camcorders with three CCDs, which can improve color, but they are generally quite small, so they can also be a problem in low light. HDD-based camcorders absolutely can crash, just like HDDs in computers. In fact, you can cause a head-crash if you drop your HDD camcorder -- they are the most fragile kind. Flash based camcorders are not "hard disk flash drive"... they use flash memory for storage instead of hard drives. Thus, no moving parts. There was a time when they had other issues, like over compressed video, but the more recent flash based camcorders offer excellent video, thanks to cheap SD cards in 8GB-16GB range, and even 32GB coming down. A 16GB flash card has the same basic storage as an 83 minute miniDV tape, but since all flash-based camcorders use more efficient compression than their tape-based rivals, they typically get about twice the video per megabyte (or better... they all have lower quality modes that allow more storage for a price in quality). I have multiple tape-based camcorders. My next one will be flash-based (of course, I wo not be dumping the tape-based either).