Restaurant Review: Colony (Global) - Times of India

Décor For a long time, there's been no noise from Raintree on St Mary's Road. The entire hotel has been undergoing a facelift, inside out. A remarkable difference is noticeable, the moment I walk into this bright, eco-sensitive hotel that is as sustainable too. In Colony, there's interesting colour play happening: grey marble flooring, turquoise sofas, beige chairs, and lots of gleaming brass all over. Many elements capture the eye, but the odds and ends wall stands out with circular frames that showcase odds and ends - literally there for all to see and send us on trip into nostalgia land. There's a wooden top with its spinning string, a tiny pressure cooker, a stamp pad, soda bottle opener, etc. Against the opposite wall, a true-to-life showcase is filled with beverage glasses. I could spend all day exploring Colony, reliving the past a bit, but... there's food to eat. Food Starting with the cilantro scented lentil soup I am again sent right back to my mother's kitchen. It has this garlic and moong dal mix that smoothly coats the tongue and memory, with subtle undertones of cilantro. Predominantly, a buffet restaurant, Colony does offer a limited a la carte selection. Part of the food, though, called Kitchen Specials, is listed on a small blackboard that sits right in the middle of the hot buffet counter. I'm presented with the pesto parmesan tossed idlis for one. Skeptical, I take one small piece on my plate. The idlis are grainy, cheesy and different, yet allow the ingredients to blend together rather than overpower. The kerai poriyal ravioli, though intriguing, is a little crunchy. "That's the podi on top," Chef Patell says. "This is a tweaked recipe, not a re-invented one." It's got curry leaves too. And again, I'm reaching out for more, because the tastes blend, rather than overpower. South Indian chicken roast, another kitchen freshie, is succulent, saucy and tastes best when it's hot. One piece is all I have as I spot the hot buffet, from which I'm craving comfort food, and head straight for the noodles. I like that they are well cooked yet separate and dry. Breaking away from tradition, I spot the salmon roll on the salad table and I fork onto my plate. It's topped with a sprinkling of bright orange, slightly crunchy fish roe. "We have salmon every day. It is either salmon or sushi," Chef Patell says, noticing. Dressed in all its grandeur, the dessert counter has 14 desserts, three ice creams, cut fruit and flavoured yoghurt. I love the tiny kulfi popsicles. I can have as many as I like of both pistachio and mango flavours. Yummy. Pluses and minuses I love how the light streams in. Even though it is a relatively small restaurant with 60 covers, the feel is of space. Since it is eco-sensitive, they take the environment seriously. Service lacks finesse, though. Address: 120, St Mary's Road, Alwarpet, Chennai Meal for 2: Rs3,000; Timings: Open 24 hours; Rating: Food: 3.50; Service: 3.00; Décor: 4.00