How to Protect Rubber Door Gaskets

Door gaskets -- whether on a car, refrigerator or even a sliding patio door -- are subject to drying out, rotting or cracking over time. Gaskets prone to weather extremes, such as those on car doors, can age even more quickly if not properly maintained. Lubricating these gaskets with petroleum jelly or weather stripping lubricant will help prolong their lives, keeping them flexible and able to seal properly for years to come. Wipe down the entire door gasket using a sponge dipped in clean soapy water. Wipe until all dust, dirt or other particles have been removed. Rinse with a clean damp sponge. Dry the gasket using paper towels. Apply a grease-based lubricant, such as petroleum jelly, by dipping a paper towel into the container, then rubbing the lubricant onto the door gasket. Coat the entire gasket thoroughly, wiping excess off one area and onto another. If using a spray lubricant, carefully spray down the entire gasket, making sure the liquid gets into the folds of the gasket as well, if the gasket has folds. Repeat Step 2 for all the other exposed gaskets -- for instance, the other doors and trunk if you are working on a car, or the freezer door if you are working on a refrigerator. Repeat the cleaning and lubing process once a year, or more often if dealing with a gasket exposed to the elements. While maintaining a door gasket, look around for other things that may have gaskets as well. Lube them all and let that be a routine, so you can be sure every gasket potentially needing lubrication has been lubricated. Consult the manual of your refrigerator, car or whatever other items feature door gaskets to learn the manufacturer's recommendations for gasket lubrication. If a gasket on a refrigerator door or freezer is stiff, cracked and clearly not sealing the way it used to, the gap is a source of energy loss. Replace the gasket to help cut energy costs. Cracked door gaskets on vehicles can also be replaced. Kathy Adams is an award-winning journalist and freelance writer who traveled the world handling numerous duties for music artists. She writes travel and budgeting tips and destination guides for USA Today, Travelocity and ForRent, among others. She enjoys exploring foreign locales and hiking off the beaten path stateside, snapping pics of wildlife and nature instead of selfies.

1. How can a person protect themselves from bullying?

Get defensive and brave! Bullies hate to see someone strong and succeeding. Stunt on them. Do not bully them back because something inside them can not make them self express it out by using anger and hatred

2. Will GFCI breakers protect my outlets?

GFCI is an acceptable substitute for grounding. GFCI is good at protecting people from electrical shock. Grounds are good at protecting equipment from static damage. (it also helps protect people by giving fault current a place to go). GFCIs do nothing to protect equipment from ESD damage. First, just sanity-check that your outlets are not grounded. Inspectors make mistakes. Pop off a receptacle; if you see hot wire colors other than red, or if you see wires disappearing down a pipe, then you may have metal conduit, which is the ground. (There are no ground wires in any of my work; I use metal conduit.) One of those cheap 3-light testers will tell the tale; 2 yellow lights means you are grounded. You will want one anyway to test GFCIs. Ignore the "legend" listing what the lights mean; it's written for new construction, and does not imagine any of the problems that arise in old work. It's perfectly legit to retrofit ground. You need only run a ground wire, on any viable route; you only need to reach any place which has a ground wire as wide as yours or wider back to the panel. However you are right, it's a lot of work, and human safety does not require it if you are using GFCIs - so option 2 is unnecessary for life safety. Retrofit grounds for receptacles where grounds really matter, like refrigerators, freezers, PCs and delicate electronics. Refrigerators because we wo not be GFCIing those. The downside is that GFCIs will trip on any problem with a downline outlet. The upshot is you only need one GFCI device per circuit unless you want more than one; there are occasionally reasons for that. GFCIs come in several forms: GFCIcircuit breaker, GFCIswitch, GFCInothing (these look like a blank receptacle with no sockets), GFCIreceptacle, and GFCIreceptacleswitch. All of them can protect downline loads. So it is possible, instead of GFCI breakers, to simply install a GFCI receptacle at the first outlet location. Even if the outlet is a switch, they make GFCIreceptacleswitch devices where the switch can be wired separately from the receptacle. (you just do not use the receptacle). In the case of a multi-wire branch circuit, the only viable way to protect the circuit is a 2-pole GFCI breaker. That said, sometimes it's useful to use GFCIreceptacles and not use the downline feature (LOAD terminals). That can be useful if there are outlets downline that you do not want to protect (like refrigerators), or if somewhere downline is a wiring flaw that is tripping the GFCI - ideally you would do a bug-hunt on the wiring flaws, but for expedience's sake you can simply do that. Most GFCIs allow attachment of 2 wires to the LINE terminals. By the way, these GFCI breakers will take a lot of room in the panel. GFCI breakers are not available as "double-stuff breakers", so no doubling up in breaker spaces. I hope you got a nice big panel. If you did not , you can fit a subpanel. Also, there's no need to replace old panels which are Cutler-Hammer, BRyant, General Electric, Murray, or Square D QO. Those are a perfectly modern type of panel currently for sale. Kill FPE or Zinsco soon. Pushmatic panels are alright, but no longer supported - have those feed subpanels. Challenger panels just need their breakers changed to BR

3. Can a large dog actually protect you?

most likely, it depends on if the dog is trained to fight, every one thinks pit bulls are dogs that kill and what not, it just depends on what the dog has been taught, but if I were you, id teach your dog to guard, if you TRULY need the protection, but if not, teaching your dog to fight could possibly put you in danger, I had a chihuahua, she always protected me, always made sure I was fine, heck, she was a 9 pound dog that barked at horses.