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I think you are on the right track with the leveling compound. By chipboard I think you mean subfloor that is made of wood chips and glue (particleboard) instead of plywood subfloors. These wood products fall apart when they get wet, so that's probably why the compound label says not to use it on particleboard. Here's an idea. .. why do not you seal the particleboard first to make it impervious to water, then use the leveling compound over it? You could easily slather on a few coats of oil based polyurethane on the particleboard. Does not have to be neat. Then use the leveling compound the way you would on any other board product that could handle some exposure to moisture
1. do I need moisture barrier under a basic wood floor before installing Laminate Flooring?
it really amazes me how many different answers you get on these kind of questions. first, before putting down the floor, make sure the sub-floor is level and free of any nails, or anything else that may be sticking up. then you will need a barrier. that is best done by laying felt roofing paper, overlay the paper by one inch. staple paper to the floor then lay your floor. the felt paper will not only give you a better surface to work on, it will also keep out moisture, it also works to keep out any squeaks in the floor. if you have any drastic squeaks, screw down the places thru to the floor joists. also, get a dehumidifier to help control the moisture coming from your basement and try and fix the problem.. good luck with your project
2. Can I use Tarkett laminate Flooring in my bathroom?
can i use tarkett vinyl in bathroom
3. Can you place self-adhesive tile on top of laminate flooring?? Will it adhere well??
Remember, in any remodeling project, your results are only as good as your preparation.That being said, how good of shape is your granny's linoleum in? Any bubbles, rips, tears or ripples if you get on your hands and knees and look across the floor? When you set a marble on the floor, does it stay in one place, or roll across to the frig? Then there is the wax factor. Have you thoroughly stripped all the accumulated wax, grime and crud on the lino? And then washed and dried the floor afterward? If you've done all of the prep work, the floor is in excellent condition and you insist on using peel and stick floor tile, at least spend the extra few dollars and get the good tile. Not the thinnest cheapest stuff on the shelf. You will thank me later
4. Laminate flooring: Do I need to leave a space between the floor and the wall?
Generally, the rule is to leave a quarter inch against all walls to allow for the inevitable expansion of the flooring. However, check the installation instructions of the product -- different products expand differently, but they all will expand. You can minimize the dimensional change in the boards by acclimatizing the room by stacking your material in the room where it will be used for a couple of days. The gap is normally covered up with a skirting board and/or quarter round. Choose the product that you like the look of. I personally like the look of a thin 3" skirt, and then add door stop (instead of quarter round) at the bottom to thicken out the base. Door stop is the same stuff that you will see in doorways to stop the door from closing too far, mounted to the jambs, inside the opening
5. Can I float a tongue-and-grooved 1x12 pine floor over a concrete slab on grade?
Most floating flooring systems have a plastic bubble wrap/like plastic barrier between the original floor (be it concrete or wood) and the actual floor material (usually a laminate).I was thinking a paint on moisture barrier. But seeing as the laminate flooring barrier is plastic it would protect the wood from rising damp anyway. It probably would not hurt to do both. Laminate flooring is quite thin compared to real wood so you may need to plane the bottom of your doors to fit